There are lots of things that I love about living in London but one of the things I enjoy most about this city is its constant ability to surprise you and this is exactly what happened when I visited the House of Dreams London.
I had heard talk of the House of Dreams for a couple of years before I eventually managed to visit. Set in Dulwich, south London, this is the most curious, and magical, house in the city – and one of London’s most unusual museums.
Created by artist Stephen Wright, this semi-detached London home has been transformed into a unique world that’s part museum, part personal diary and part immersive art installation.
This is not the kind of place typical on tourists’ radars but if you have time, or if you live in London and are looking for unusual things to do, then it is well worth a visit. I had expected it to be an interesting day out when we visited, but I hadn’t expected my visit to be quite so moving.
If you are tempted to visit, then here’s what to expect from the House of Dreams London.
Building a House of Dreams
Originally from Cheshire, Stephen was born in 1954 and moved to London in the 1980s after finishing a Masters in Fine Art Textiles at Manchester University.
He began renting what is today the House of Dreams from a kind old man who eventually left London, selling the house to Stephen for £49,000.
Stephen had various jobs, working in the fashion world as a textile designer creating “wearable art pieces” before starting his own stationery business, working out of his home.
One night in 1999, Stephen sat with his then partner, Donald, and together they watched a program called Journeys Into the Outside with Jarvis Cocker, in which the singer travelled the globe in search of large-scale visionary environments, created by Outsider artists.
Outsider art, in case you’re wondering, is art created by artists who taught themselves rather than train at a prestigious art school. They make things simply because they feel compelled to do so.
Inspired by what they saw, Stephen and Donald travelled to France to visit some of these environments and, when they returned to London, Stephen started work transforming their semi-detached south London home into the House of Dreams.
Donald died in 2005 followed shortly after by Stephen’s parents. The House of Dreams project was put on hold for a couple of years until Stephen was ready to start again.
When Stephen originally started on the project, he focused on just one room but over the last 25 years the work has spread throughout the house, occupying every single room and surface.
There are floor to ceiling mosaics, sculptures, paintings, writings and collages all created with thousands and thousands of recycled objects. There are things that belonged to his parents, including old bike parts and handwritten notes, as well as items collected at flea markets and car boot sales, and pieces of art that Stephen has created.
Over the years, the house has become a reflection of Stephen himself, a kind of personal diary that shares his memories and dreams. It’s utterly unique, wonderfully eccentric and incredibly moving.
What to expect at the House of Dreams London
The House of Dreams sits on a quiet, leafy residential street in East Dulwich, set back from the road behind a blue wooden gate with a small sign that reads “House of Dreams”.
In the front patio, tinsel hangs from trees, as well as dolls, plastic beads and Tibetan prayer flags. Every surface is covered in colourful mosaics made with bits of broken tiles, ceramic mug handles, old plastic bleach bottles and even the false teeth that once belonged to Stephen’s parents. Today they are cemented into a step.
The entrance hall is a riot of colour; sculptures and mosaics made out of the most curious collection of everyday objects. There are bottle tops and beads, old tins and plastic clocks, the handle from a red plastic spade and a green shoe mould.
Apparently, as the house became well known, people started donating items for Stephen to use, including a deer skull with antlers.
The living room is packed with items, including a giant chest with tiny drawers. My kids loved opening the drawers to see what was inside, discovering old teeth moulds that had been donated to the museum and dozens of reading glasses found at a flea market in Paris.
The back garden was also a highlight, filled with mosaics and sculptures shining in the sunshine.
One of the things that I loved most the House of Dreams are Stephen’s hand-written memory boards. Painted on white square tiles and positioned around the home, they are Stephen’s personal thoughts and observations with writings such as “You can go back but you can’t go home, it isn’t there anymore” and “I am a world citizen, not a little Englander”.
One thing to note, there is no set route for visiting the House of Dreams, you can wander freely through the rooms at your own pace.
Tips for Visiting the House of Dreams Museum
Check opening times
The House of Dreams Museum is not open every day, rather it has monthly open days and timed visitor slots. Tickets sell out well in advance so make sure to book your tickets quickly. Check the website for dates and availability.
Make the most of your time in South London
Visits are timed for 1hr 15minutes although you are definitely not ushered out when your time is up! We spent around an hour at the House of Dreams, which included some time talking to Stephen, who is very welcoming.
If you want to do more in the area (you might as well given that you are in Dulwich!) then there are some fun things to do nearby. On Saturdays, the weekly North Cross Road Market takes place. Located just off Lordship Lane, there are stalls selling everything from vintage clothing and plants to artisan coffee, delicious pastries and tasty street food.
Lordship Lane is also home to some great independent shops including House of Roya, a homewares store which is filled with lots of wonderful things.
Dulwich Park is nearby with a good cafe and a large playground, if you are visiting the area with younger kids.
The Horniman Museum is a short bus ride – or 30 minute walk – from East Dulwich and another great place to visit in London with kids.
Prep the kids
If you are taking kids to the House of Dreams then it’s worth having a chat with them beforehand. It’s an incredible place but some kids might find it a little overwhelming – and the headless dolls can be a little creepy! But it’s also a great way for kids to learn that art can come in many forms and that it’s not just about big museums and galleries.
There’s not a huge amount of space in the house and it can get crowded so leave the pushchairs at home.
Getting There
The House of Dreams Museum is located at 45 Melbourne Grove, East Dulwich, London SE22 8RG.
East Dulwich Station is just a short walk away, with direct trains from London Bridge. Buses also run from central London to East Dulwich.
